How To Repair A Blown Tweeter On A Bass Amp
I picked up a Behringer B215A Powered Speaker and it served me well for just under a year. I somehow blew the tweeter during a Xome performance! Imagine that!
Past the time I thought well-nigh it again and went to dig out the warranty information, the one-year warranty period had expired. Pretty typical affair for me to do. And so I figured that I'd cleft 'er open and see what going on in there.
Opening up the cabinet was piece of cake enough except some of the screws belongings the thing together were recessed then far down in the back of the chiffonier that my trusty screwdriver would not reach. Actually, most of the screws were that manner. I went to the hardware shop and picked upwards an extra long Philips screwdriver — a 20 inch long ane to be exact. I measured things upwardly and y'all would need at to the lowest degree a 9 inch long shaft on the screwdriver to get these screws out. Most of the screws were the aforementioned but there were two that were shorter than the others and the screws used for the handles were different.
And then, after all the screws were out, the forepart and the back of the speaker came right apart. If y'all are doing this yourself, exist actress conscientious as both the front end and the dorsum are big and heavy and could fall over. Prop up one side on a wall, chair, table, etc. Yous don't want i side falling over and yanking too difficult on the wires.
When I got to the betoken where I could reach within the speaker, I marked a + and – on the corresponding connectors with a Sharpie for both the pinch commuter (tweeter) and the woofer. I too marked each of the wires themselves as "woofer" and "tweeter" so I wouldn't get those mixed upward. Then I removed the quick disconnects on each set up of speaker terminals. Now the cabinet is in 2 pieces!
The pinch commuter on these speakers screw right in to the back of the horn. Uncomplicated enough to remove, correct? I twisted and turned it but it would non budge. I expended all my vast muscular free energy on information technology and could non become it to twist off. I noticed that the diameter of the compression commuter was about the same as an oil filter on a machine. A quick mensurate told me it was 3.5″ in diameter. So I went and picked up a cheap oil filter wrench. The oil filter wrench worked flawlessly. The magnet in the pinch commuter did concenter the metal on the wrench a bit though. A couple of calorie-free taps and some twisting and the driver was off!
Behringer uses some sort of loc-tite cloth on the threads to secure everything in identify making it difficult to remove.
I did a piddling research online and found that the threaded opening on the Behringer compression driver is actually a pretty standard size — ane iii/8″ in bore with 18 TPI (threads per inch). For a replacement, I wound upwardly going with a Selenium D220TI (8 ohm) bachelor at Parts Express. It cost me $45.84. At that place was another one available in the $30 – $40 range simply I decided to go wit the D220TI because of the rated power handling. Supposedly the original Behringer HF pinch drivers replacements run in the $70 – $80 range. The few places that I constitute online indicated that they are "special order" items and information technology would take a while to get them to me. The specs on the Selenium are amend, it was around half the price and I could become it in a few days and so the decision was pretty much a no-brainer. There was besides another consideration in the decision process… the Selenium has a titanium diaphragm and the original Behringer 34T30D8 has an aluminum diaphragm according to the markings on the driver.
Now, when I purchased this speaker, I was under the impression that it had a titanium diaphragm commuter… the box information technology came in says it has a titanium diaphragm driver… Behringer's Web site says it has an aluminum diaphragm driver and some retail Web sites say it has a titanium, others say it has an aluminum.
I experience that there's something weird going on so I'm probably going to write a prissy letter to Behringer to encounter what they accept to say… but I digress…!
So, I popped in the new Selenium driver, reconnected the wires and put everything dorsum together. The Selenium is a lot bigger and heavier that the Behringer counterpart but it screws on to the dorsum of the horn and fits within the cabinet just fine. The oil filter wrench won't strap effectually the new driver — information technology was just way too big. I just screwed it in every bit tight equally I could by hand.
As for the sound, I have simply done a brief test fleck it sounds excellent. I promise that the new Selenium commuter will hold up to the abuse I sometimes put it through.
By the mode, the Behringer B212A supposedly uses the same setup except the woofer is a 12″ every bit opposed to the 15″ in the B215A. You should be able to supervene upon the stock Behringer compression driver with a new one like I did.
Important news: I have heard from a few folks that the there isn't plenty room inside of the B212 serial (specifically the B212A and B212D) powered speakers to accommodate the Selenium driver. It's just as well big. If you actually want to try though, don't say I didn't warn you.
Here are some extra photos:
How To Repair A Blown Tweeter On A Bass Amp,
Source: https://www.negatron.org/2010/12/07/replacing-a-blown-tweeter-in-a-behringer-b215a-powered-speaker/
Posted by: jacksonentakeeke.blogspot.com
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